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2 August – Koh Kong, Cambodia – Trat, Thailand – 100 km

Tania miraculously recovered after taking her prescribed $2 drugs, and we headed for the border, which was only about 10 kilometres down the road. As always, the border was a hectic place with tuk-tuks, trucks, and busses.

We exited Cambodia and entered Thailand with ease, and what a beautiful ride it was. The stretch from the border to Trat is a little-visited area with the most beautiful beaches and bays one can imagine. Along the way, we met four Thai cyclists out for a two-day ride, had a chat, and continued on our way again. Tania was feeling great, and we made good time, even stopping for lunch along the way. The girl was on a roll again!

In the afternoon, it started raining, but we continued as there was no reason to stop, and soon, reached Trat, where we found a monastery that had a lovely jetty at the river. We asked if we could pitch our tent, and after much sign language, we managed to get approval and pitched our tents. Not only did the jetty have an excellent view of the river, it also came with a canopy, a light and electrical point. How cool is that? The monks also offered to lock the gate to the jetty and pointed us in the direction of the toilets; what a bargain! We first had a cup of coffee and then cooked our noodles, all while watching the tide come in, covering the mangroves that surrounded us.

3 August Trat – Na Yai Am – 111 km

I woke to the sound of crabs scurrying around the mangroves and Tania making coffee, not a bad way to be woken in the morning. We wanted to be back in Bangkok on the evening of the 5th to give us enough time to box Tania’s bike and maybe for some last minute shopping before she heads back to South Africa on the 8th.

It was, therefore, heads down and heading for Bangkok, not a difficult task, just steady 110/120 kilometre days to get there in time. The highway never makes for interesting riding, but we had a job to do, and we did exactly that. We found good camping at a petrol station along the way that not only had a 7-11 but a good night market right next door. The public toilets at the petrol station provided the necessary ablutions, and we were as happy as two proverbial pigs.

4 August Na Yai Am – Anata Nakorn 135 km

It was not the most interesting ride so we pushed on so we could be in striking distance of Bangkok the following day. Fortunately, it was easy riding and the weather played along; we, therefore, made good use of it and reached Anata Nakorn where we found a rather nice hotel along the road. It was good to have a shower and charge all our devices again.

5 August - August Anata Nakorn – Bangkok – 82 km

We were on the road early, which was maybe not the best idea, as the road was incredibly busy with the morning traffic. It also got no better as we soon reached the city limits and, as always, it was bumper-to-bumper traffic into Bangkok. In the process of finding our destination, we cycled slap bang right through the centre of Bangkok! The concentration on the map, watching out for the traffic—as well as making sure I don’t lose Tania along the way—made for a tiring ride, and I, for one, was more than happy to reach the famous Khao San Road area, where we wanted to stay.

We found a room for 450 baht, which had space for the bikes, a ground-floor room, a window, and air-con; we considered that a bargain and so came to the end of Tania’s cycle tour of Southeast Asia. I was pretty chuffed that it all went well and that the plan came together.

6 August - Bangkok

The following morning, we had loads to do. Tania had to box her bike, I went to look for new panniers (as stuff started falling out of the holes of the old ones), and I handed in my camera and lenses for re-calibration - something that was apparently going to take two weeks!

I was once again in awe of Bangkok. As I took the river taxi, I watched in amazement at all that was happening around me. Colourful longtail boats stood in sharp contrast against old wooden shacks. Askew buildings sat snuggly next to modern skyscrapers, and ferries dogged slow barges heading upstream. We zoomed past colourful and ornate temples where traders sell noodle soup and skewers of chicken asses to passers-by. All that I got for 14 baht.

I jumped off at the Taksin jetty and hopped on the sky train, which took me into the heart of the city. I had to find the Canon repair centre, which was in the MBK centre. Fortunately, the sky train stopped right outside, and it was easy to find my way from there. Once that was done, I was back on the Skytrain to the Amarin Plaza, where I found K-Trade, the outdoor specialist selling Ortlieb bags. I was in luck and bought two brand new, luminous green panniers, after which I treated myself to a cup of coffee and a large slice of cheesecake. Life is good in Bangkok. That evening we headed to Chinatown and the Hau Seng Hong Restaurant, which sells the best Dim Sum in the whole of Bangkok (according to me, LOL). We ate so much that we could hardly run for the tuk-tuk when it started raining!

I was up amazingly early, donned my running shoes and went exploring around Bangkok. I ran along the canal, but it proved more difficult than expected. The path along the canal was very narrow, and it is a place where people live, so I had to duck underneath washing lines, skirt around local markets where food was already sizzling and steaming, dodge cats scrounging for food and watched my step that I did not trip over homeless people or stray dogs. It was nevertheless an enjoyable run past ornate temples and monks collecting food. Bangkok never fails to amaze me.