1 November – Bangkok
I
had a slow start to the day, and Jan arrived in the
afternoon, looking somewhat nonplussed after such a
long flight. I find it quite amazing that one can be
so fresh and relaxed after being on a plane for so
long. As Jan needed no rest, we took a slow walk
around the Khao San Road area after which we did my
favourite budget sunset cruise on the Chao Phraya
River. The Chao Phraya River is a busy river with a
constant flow of traffic and the river breeze made
for a welcome relief from the heat of the city. We
passed barges carrying heavy loads moving slowly
upstream, while people commuting to and from work
filled the boat.
On
our return, we headed for one of the backstreet
restaurants for a plate of Thai curry and a few
Chang beers. I have a feeling it is going to be a
good trip.
2 November – Bangkok
We
had plans of waking early, but that never
materialised, and it was mid-day by the time we hit
the road. We walk the streets of old Bangkok, past
the old Phra Sumen Fort, one of only two remaining
forts out of 14 that were built more than two
centuries ago. Bangkok was established as the new
capital city after Ayutthaya was destroyed by the
Burmese in 1767. Bangkok was then a walled city with
canals dug out that acted as a moat surrounding the
city. We strolled through the university campus, and
I thought it an excellent location for a campus,
right on the busy river Chao Phraya.
As
always, I made a turn at the amulet market with its
beautiful and often bizarre collection of amulets.
The market sells small talismans and is mostly
frequented by collectors, monks, taxi drivers and
people in dangerous professions. Most of the
clientele appeared to be men looking through
magnifying glasses at the tiny amulets, which seemed
to be mostly for “good luck” or fertility.
After taking our shoes off, we popped into one of my
favourite spots, the Wat Pho temple, with its
massive reclining Buddha. The statue measures 46
metres long and 15 metres tall and is covered in
gold leaf, making for a rather impressive sight by
anyone’s standards. On leaving the vast hall, we had
the opportunity of purchasing a bowl of coins that
one can drop in the 108 bronze bowls which line the
length of the wall. Dropping the coins into the
bowls made a nice ringing sound, and I understand
that the money goes towards helping the monks
renovate and preserve Wat Pho. 108 is a significant
number in Buddhism, referring to the 108 positive
actions and symbols that helped lead Buddha to
perfection.
We
followed the old canals past noodle soup stalls and
could not resist sitting down for a steaming bowl of
their delicious soup. Eventually, we landed up at
the Golden Mound with its golden stupa on top,
offering a stunning view of the city.
After sunset, we headed out again and sat on the
pavement at small tables on equally small chairs
enjoying a plate of Pad Thai, Thailand’s most famous
dish: a sweet and spicy combination of noodles, egg,
and vegetables, all washed down with a large Chang
Beer. On our way home, we popped in at the Blues bar
where we, once again, sat on the pavement on small
chairs having a glass of chilled red wine at a
rather astronomical price. Then it was time to head
back to our abode for a well-deserved rest.
3 November – Bangkok
We
decided to stay one more day, and there was,
therefore, no rush to go anywhere. We took the bikes
for a test ride on a short but pleasant trip around
the Royal residence and back. The search for a new
cap for myself was on in all earnest as my old one
had literally fallen apart. We took the canal ferry
to the city centre where I found a rather lovely
cap, albeit at a somewhat hefty price. As always I
found Bangkok city centre an intriguing place.
Amidst the chaotic network of public transport, and
shopping malls sit the Erawan shrine, one of
Bangkok's most visited shrines. The smell of incense
hung thick in the air as devotees, on their way to
and from work, stopped to pay their respects.
Then it was back to our guesthouse using the Sky
train and then a river ferry ride. Midway along our
journey our ferry, however, came to an abrupt halt,
and with no command of the Thai language, we had no
idea what was happening. We had little choice but to
follow the other commuters and abandon our ride,
leaving us to make the rest of our journey on foot.
It was a pleasant walk along the river and through
the flower market, and we giggled at our odd
situation as we still had no idea why our ferry ride
came to such an abrupt end. On our way back, we
passed the second-hand false teeth salesman, and I
was surprised to note that the false teeth and
bridges were slowly getting less.
Back at the guesthouse, we watched the sunset from
the roof terrace while sipping a Chang beer after
which we went in search of food.
4 -5 November – Bangkok – Ayutthaya – 80 km
Finally, we were on the road, and what a delightful
day it turned out to be. It was an early Sunday
morning and the traffic light, making for an easy
escape out of busy
Bangkok. We followed the Prem
Prachakon canal giving us a slight insight into the
daily life of the Thai people. It was weekend and
people were in a relaxed mood, fishing or paying
their respects at the local temple. Others were
preparing the rice paddies for planting or peddling
their wares by motorbikes with sidecars.
We
slowly made our way past humble houses on stilts,
bright green rice fields and welcoming locals. Men
were proudly showing off their fighting chickens,
and we were amazed at the narrow and rickety
makeshift walkways leading to the houses on the
opposite side of the canal.
Shortly before reaching Ayutthaya, we turned off the
main road to visit the Bang Pa-In Palace, built on
an island in the Chao Phraya River. The place dates
back to the 17th century and has, at least to me, a
rather amusing history. The story goes that it was
the illegitimate son of King Ekathotsarot, King
Prasat Throng, who constructed the palace. King Ekathotsarot was shipwrecked on the island and had a
son by a woman who befriended him. The son became
king, maybe only on the island!
Just before Ayutthaya our path suddenly came to an
end, and we were happy to find a small ferry to take
us across the river. Once in town, we bunked down at
Baan Lotus Guesthouse, an old school house that now
makes for a comfortable guesthouse. I was surprised,
and at the same time very impressed, that the owner
remembered me. She is of a very advanced age but
still as sharp as a pin.
As
we did not eat all day, we were starving and wasted
no time in heading for a nearby restaurant.
We
spent the following day in Ayutthaya visiting all
the old ruins and cycling around what is left of the
old city.
6 November - Ayutthaya – Lopburi -67 km
After breakfast, Jan and I cycled out of Ayutthaya
and slowly made our way into
the breeze towards Lopburi. A quick visit to the
elephant kraal left me
as depressed as always. It is such a sad sight to
see these magnificent animals chained and trained
for elephant rides. Baby elephants had nowhere to
run or play, and their mothers appeared agitated
with the situation.
We
cycled past bizarre temples and farmers working the
fields. Just before Lopburi we spotted a sign for a
300-year-old rubber tree as well as a boat museum
and turned in to inspect. We met a very amiable man
who offered to show us around. In broken English, he
explained the uses and names of the many wooden
boats on display. Some were used by monks for their
daily collection of food and others for fishing. The
king apparently used the near 300-year-old dragon
boat look-alike that was powered by at least 12 men.
We
continued to Lopburi where we found Noom Guesthouse
(where I usually stay) fully booked. They pointed us
to the Nett Hotel, a sister
hotel around the corner.
We, however, could not open any windows as the
monkeys would force their way in, even with bars
fitted to all the windows. Cute as they were, they
can be quite a menace.
We
took a walk around town and then settled for food
and beer at the Noom Guesthouse restaurant. I was
rather impressed that the owner not only recognised
me but also mentioned that when I stayed there in
February (with Janice and Chris), I left without
collecting the key deposit. I could not even recall
the occasion, but the money was duly deducted from
our bill. How fantastic is that!
7 November - Lopburi – Suphan Bhuri - 100 km
“Good morning,” Jan shouted as he walked past my
room. The monkeys causing
havoc on the tin roof must
have woken him early. We ate our breakfast
while sitting on the pavement outside the 7-11, and
then, dodging monkeys, we cycled out of Lopburi. We
picked up a nice tailwind and had a pleasant and
effortless cycle along the smallest of rural roads.
We
people cycled past villagers selling tiny dried
fish, while others were drying rice or fishing the
canals. Most of rural life in Thailand revolves
around rice, and some farmers were preparing rice
paddies, while others were busy planting or even
harvesting it.
At
midday, we stopped for watermelon, which the lady
kindly cut for us. It was delicious and sweet and
just what we needed. Then it was back on the bikes
and, not much further, we spotted a sign for a
Buffalo Village. It turned out to be a resort that
offered bungalows as well as an insight into the
rural Thai life.
It
was a pleasant day of cycling and slightly longer
than anticipated, as we spent so much time
zig-zagging through the countryside. Once in Suphan
Buri, we found a room and headed straight for the
nearest restaurant.
8 - 9 November – Suphan Buri – Kanchanaburi – 115 km
After a quick bite to eat, we headed through the
countryside in the direction of Kanchanaburi. We
weaved our way through small hamlets and past large
areas of wetlands. Farmers, water buffalo, and cows
with long ears all looked up in surprise as we
cycled past. We were apparently not in an area
frequented by farangs.
I
was pleasantly surprised to see villagers declaring
war on aquatic weed, threatening to their choke
waterways. Water hyacinth is considered one of the
most dangerous invasive plant species worldwide.
Innovative villagers are now drying this weed and
creating water hyacinth handicrafts, such as woven
bags and baskets.
As
always, we cycled past numerous ornate Buddhist
temples, rice fields, and duck
farms. It was a
superb cycling day as the countryside was flat and
the weather overcast.
We
also came upon The Don Chedi Monument, dedicated to
King Naresuan the Great’s victory over Burmese
forces. It is believed that in 1592, King Naresuan
the Great defeated Phra Maha Upparacha, leader of
the Burmese army, in a fierce royal duel on
elephant-back.
We
spent the following day in Kanchnaburi, not doing
very much except for visiting the famous bridge over
the river Kwai.
10 November – Kanchanaburi – Samut Songkram – 117 km
We
got underway fairly early and followed the Mae Klong
River for most of the morning, making for a stunning
ride through the countryside. Our narrow path
twisted and turned through small settlements and
past impressive looking temples. Wat Tham Suea was
rater impressive, sitting onto a small hill and
surrounded by bright green rice fields. We took
shortcuts bringing us face-to-face with surprised
farmers and equally surprised kids. Even the village
dogs were too overwhelmed to give chase.
Just before Samut Songkram, we stopped at the
Amphawa floating market where we nibbled on all
there was on offer. Then it was back on the bike and
onto Samut Songkram where we found the night market
already in full swing. It is amazing just how much
one can eat when travelling by bicycle.
11 November - Samut Songkram – Hua Hin – 123 km
We
first popped in at the train market to watch the
train, moving at a snail’s pace,
through the busy
market area. Traders packed up their produce and
canopies allowing the train to pass. Once passed,
everything went back into place as if nothing
happened.
From our hotel we cycled the few hundred metres to
the river ferry and soon found ourselves on back
roads. We followed the scenic route that runs close
to the shores of the Gulf of Thailand and past vast
salt farms. Every now and again information boards
gave us interesting tit-bits on our surroundings. I
found it interesting that nearly 50 different
species of birds from as far afield as Alaska and
Siberia fly to these salt pans to nest and breed.
That is one heck of a long way to fly. Although I
kept an eye out for the spoon billed sandpiper I did
not spot any.
Our
route was littered with temples and crab stalls. As
it was weekend many city folk seemed to be out for a
relaxing day. Fishing boats were lying three-deep in
small rivers and the smell of dried fish hung in the
air as we cycled past large drying racks made from
bamboo.
One
in Hua Hin we headed for Bird Guesthouse with rooms
on stilts over the water, making for a great place
to enjoy a well-deserved beer.
12 November – Hua Hin – Sam Roi Yot Beach - 50 km
We
left Hua Hin via a cycle path that ran next to the
highway, making for easy cycling out of the city. As
cycle paths can be somewhat predictable, we turned
off and headed for the coast. We followed the coast
past Pramburi Beach where we stopped for coconut
juice and then cycled on to Sam Roy Yod Beach where
we settled for a room down one of the small lanes.
13 November - Sam Roi Yot Beach - Prachuap Khiri
Khan – 78 km
We
woke to a stunning sunrise and after watching
fishermen and women going about their business we
continued our journey along the coast. A short and
pleasurable ride
brought us to Sam Roi Yot National
Park where we took a boat ride around the headland
and then a short but steep walk up the mountain to
Phraya Nakon Cave with its very impressive temple
inside. I’m always surprised as how one enters the
cave and then, through a crack, can see the temple
inside. The hole in the cave ceiling provides for
light to shine down onto the temple making for great
photo opportunities.
Then it was back down the mountain and onto the
bikes for a scenic ride to Prachuap Khiri Khan. We
bunked down at Maggies Homestay with its tiny but
inexpensive rooms. A walk to the night market
provided enough choices to satisfy even the pickiest
of eaters. We sat on the boardwalk railing eating
our food, looking out over the ocean and smiled at
just how lucky we were to be sitting there.
14 November - Prachuap Khiri Khan – Bang Saphan
Beach – 101 km
The
road to Bang Saphan runs along the coast, making for
a relaxed and scenic ride. We cycled past small
beachside settlements and low-key beach resorts
tucked away behind palm trees and bougainvilleas.
Our path
twisted and turned through coconut
plantations until we reached our destination at Bang Saphan Beach. Supper at a beachside restaurant
sealed yet another marvelous day of cycling in
Thailand.
15 – 16 November - Bang Saphan Beach – Wua Laen
Beach – 100 km
We
woke to a beautiful sunrise, something I never seem
to tire of. After breakfast, we were back on the
bike for another stunning ride along the coast. The
day slipped by as we slowly made our way south past
idyllic beaches and rubber tree plantations. We
crossed numerous rivers where colourful boats were
side by side, ready to go out fishing. We reached
Wua Laen Beach early and found a bungalow at
Seabeach Bungalows where we wasted no time at all to
have a dip in the warm waters of the Gulf of
Thailand. We spent a pleasant evening having supper
with friends we met at Seabeach Bungalows.
We
also spent the next day at Wua Laen Beach, relaxing
and doing the usual rest day chores.
17 - 18 November – Wua Laen Beach – Ranong – 144 km
Well-fed and rested, we hopped on the bikes, waved
the Gulf of Thailand goodbye, and headed over the
hills to the Andaman coast. Our initial plan was to
overnight in Kraburi, 80 kilometres away, but Jan
was on fire and, aided by a tailwind, we sped right
past Kraburi and onto
Ranong.
After crossing the central cordillera, the mountain
chain which runs from Tibet through the Malay
peninsula (by now only a few hills) we stopped at
the Kra Isthmus, the narrowest part of the Malay
Peninsula, in southern Thailand. The isthmus is
bordered to the west by the Andaman Sea and the east
by the Gulf of Thailand. The narrowest part, between
the Kra River and the Bay of Sawi near the Chumphon,
is only 44 kilometres wide.
The
Andaman coast is somewhat hillier but beautifully
lush and green. We made our way past waterfalls and
densely wooded areas until we reached Ranong, where
we bedded down at the well-priced Asia Hotel.
We
woke to feel rather lazy after our mega-long ride
the day before and decided to stay in Ranong for the
day. We were slightly ahead of schedule, and there
was, therefore, no rush to get to Phuket.
19 November - Ranong – Bang Ben Beach – 59 km
We
were slow in getting going and, after breakfast from
the local 7/11, we eventually got underway. We were
pleasantly surprised to find a brand-new bike path
leading out of the city. We stopped at the grassy
hill tourist attraction, complete with temple and
steps leading to the top. It is so unusual in
Thailand to have a grassy hill that it is now a
tourist attraction.
We
ambled along slowly until we reached Bang Ben Beach,
a small settlement 10 kilometres off the main road.
We stayed at the only place there is, Wasana Resort,
and took a leisurely cycle to the small fishing
harbour as well as to a nearby beach. We returned
just before it got dark and the perfect time to
settle down with a cold Chang beer.
20 November - Bang Ben Beach - Khura Buri – 83 km
After a hearty breakfast, we left sleepy Bang Ben
Beach and headed back to the main road. It was a
relaxed cycle past a large and
tropical-looking
river, all with an abundance of bird-life. Roadside
stalls provided us with more than enough to eat and
drink, and monks and monkeys kept us entertained on
our way to Khura Buri. The day was overcast, making
for a pleasant cycle as we headed over the hills
stopping ever so often at roadside stalls for a
drink. We also popped into an interesting-looking
nature reserve that offered two- and three-day
hikes, something I may look into next time I’m in
the area.
In
Khura Buri we found bungalows at the Tararin Resort,
consisting of bungalows on stilts right on the Nang
Yon River. It started raining, but we made a break
for the nearest restaurant and managed to get back
without getting soaked.
21 November – Khura Buri – Happy House, Khao Lak –
98 km
The
previous night's rain made for a lovely, fresh
morning ride as we headed off towards some more
hills in the direction of Khao Lak. Again, we passed
a multitude of colourful temples and a variety of
interesting roadside stalls.
It
started drizzling and we donned our raincoats, which
soon became too hot and uncomfortable to cycle in.
Around midday, the rain cleared, and it was easy
cycling into touristy Khao Lak. We cycled around
looking for a budget room, and we found bargain
bungalows in a garden setting close to the beach for
only 400 TB, not a bad price for Khao Lak. At
sunset, we took a walk to the beach and enjoyed our
beer sitting on the beach watching the fishermen
cast their nets. A simple pavement restaurant
provided supper and that was all we needed.
22 November Happy House, Khao Lak – Villa Viking,
Patong Beach – 112 km
We
loaded our bicycles for what was, sadly, our last
day on the road on this trip. The road to Patong
Beach, Phuket is always a hilly one, no matter which
road one picks. Still, it was an interesting ride
and we watched as villagers made cigarette paper
from dried palm leaves. We stopped for fun photos
and sugarcane juice - just what we needed for the
last few steep hills in Patong Beach. It is never
easy to find budget accommodation in touristy Patong,
but we were lucky and found Villa Viking, a small
guesthouse with large, clean air-con rooms for 600
TB a room.
So
came to an end Jan’s cycle tour from Bangkok to
Phuket and I was sorry the trip was over. Jan was
great fun and a super-relaxed guy that made for an
enjoyable, fun trip. Fortunately, we still had a few
days in Phuket before he was to fly home and we
planned on making full use of those days.
That evening we took a walk to “walking street”- a
pedestrian street jam-packed with bars and dance
clubs. We had a few beers while staring,
slack-jawed, at what all was happening in front of
us.

23 November – Phuket
We
took the local bus into Phuket town to look for a
bike box, something we found at the second bike shop
we visited. Then it was back on the bus (box and
all) to Patong Beach where we stayed. |